Xizhou, Dali

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Xizhou, Dali: A short, easy guide

Location
Xizhou is a town about 20 km north of Dali Old Town in Dali City, Yunnan, China. It covers 13 small villages and has around 54,800 residents, mainly Bai people, with Hui and Han neighbors. The town sits near Erhai Lake to the east and Cang Mountain to the west, at about 2,000 meters above sea level.

History in brief
Xizhou has lived in this valley for thousands of years. It rose up in the Sui dynasty and grew with the Nanzhao Kingdom and the Tea Horse Road, a historic trade route. It was once a military fortress and a royal site for Nanzhao rulers. In the Yuan dynasty, Muslims from northern and Central Asia helped fill government roles in the area. The Mongols also brought a cheese-making tradition that many families still practice. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Xizhou prospered as a trading and educational center. In WWII, the Flying Tigers used a base here, and Xizhou later became known for its preserved Bai architecture and heritage sites.

Geography
Xizhou sits on a fertile plateau between the western Cangshan mountains and the eastern Erhai Lake. It’s about 20 km north of Dali’s old town and roughly 35 km from Dali City’s modern center, Xiaguan.

Places of interest
- The morning market in Xizhou is one of the largest in the Dali valley, drawing farmers and vendors from nearby villages.
- Daci Temple is an old temple with statues from Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, and Bai Benzhu beliefs. It became a protected heritage site in 1986.
- The Linden Centre is a guesthouse and cultural center housed in a restored traditional courtyard.
- The town square hosts shops, restaurants, and local snacks like Xizhou baba (savory or sweet pies), plus a large gate inscribed with notable residents’ names.
- Yan Family Compound is a well-preserved Bai courtyard home now serving as a local history museum.
- Zhoucheng, north of Xizhou, is famous for traditional tie-dye (dazha) fabric.
- Huadianba is a high plateau nearby, home to herders and yaks.
- Bai architecture features large white reflecting walls in many courtyards. The reflecting wall brightens spaces and is believed to keep evil away while inviting luck into the main room.
- Marble is widely used in buildings and decorations across the town.

Culture
The Bai people hold the Raosanling festival, their most important celebration. It spans three days in the fourth lunar month, with key events in different villages; Xizhou hosts activities on the second day. They also have a Three Course Tea ceremony, which includes bitter, sweet, and strange courses to symbolize life’s stages.

Bai people are known for distinctive clothing, especially women who wear a tall, decorative headdress. Bai social traditions have included a historic emphasis on women’s roles in the family and economy, though roles have changed over time. In Xizhou you can see temples and religious symbols from Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, and Benzhuism all coexisting, and there is even a small mosque reflecting cultural exchange.

Economy
agriculture is the main livelihood. Farmers grow rice and corn in the rainy season and garlic and broad beans in the dry season. The valley supports two growing seasons and a variety of fruits and vegetables, with many families raising chickens, pigs, cows, and sheep for family use or sale.
Marble production and woodworking are also important. Solar and wind energy are increasingly used to cut costs. Tourism, boosted by proximity to Dali Old Town, has led locals to open restaurants, coffee shops, and guesthouses.

Getting there and getting around
- You can take a bus from Dali Old Town. The ride is about 30 minutes and costs around 7 RMB. Buses run on routes near the 214 highway and the Dali-Lijiang road.
- Xizhou is small enough to walk through quickly, but many visitors use horse carts or bicycles to get around.

Education
Xizhou has public schools for local students. In the past century, it hosted campuses for Huazhong University and Yale-in-China. Today, international programs occasionally bring students from Sidwell Friends School in Washington, DC, and the Shanghai American School to study Chinese history and culture in Xizhou.