Dorea (cloth)

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Dorea, also spelled Doriyā, Doreas, Dooreas, or Doriyah, was a striped or checked cloth made in the Indian subcontinent. The simplest form had lengthwise stripes along the warp. It started as cotton but was later made from silk, tussar, or silk–cotton blends, and it was fairly flimsy compared with Ilayecha. Dorea was often called a striped cloth because the stripes run along the warp; there were varieties like Are-doriya with diagonal stripes and Salaidar with stripes across the width (weft). The Mughal-era Ain-i-Akbari mentions Doriya alongside other cotton fabrics such as Khasa, Salu, Bafta, Tansukh, Dupatta, and Panchtoliya. The warp typically used three parts cotton and two parts Tasar or other colors, while the weft was all cotton of one color, giving lengthwise stripes that could be dyed by the weavers. Bengal exported a range of fabrics including Dorea and others such as Sologazi, Chela, and Rumal.